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Because of Iceland’s position on the mid-Atlantic ridge, the blood of the Earth boils up through its soil, in the form of countless volcanoes and hot springs. At the other extreme, glaciers and ice fields are a huge part of the Icelandic scenery. I came unprepared for ice-climbing or any other feat requiring Viking stamina, but was still able to explore some of the country's more accessible natural wonders.

In Reykjavik, my friend Marta and I booked an excursion called "horses and hot springs". The tour company drove us out into the Icelandic countryside –