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It is in its transparent, warm waters, that the marine world was revealed to me. "Revelation" is no understatement here. The first day I scuba dived, I swam into an enchanted and hitherto unsuspected universe of iridescent colors, fantastical shapes and unhurried movements.

Now don't get me wrong. The bit of Maldives that does emerge from the ocean is idyllic – a modest bit really, since ninety percent of the country's official surface is covered with water and the largest island doesn't exceed eight square kilometers.
In fact, the islets are so postcard-perfect that a description summons every cliché in the book about Robinson Crusoe-style islands: palm trees leaning over fine white sand, turquoise water, gentle waves, tropical heat, fragrant hibiscuses, azure skies.


Then on the 80 or so islands which have been turned into exclusive resorts, foreign guests can sip cocktails under a parasol all day long – a hedonistic treat forbidden to Maldivians, who are Muslims. Since I was not lucky enough to be on a luxury honeymoon, I was stuck working in Malé, the capital island.